Equinox and the Art of Community

As a species, we have generally been fascinated by the sky and changes in weather. From the stand-point of evolution, this makes sense because looking at the position of the sun in the sky can help determine things like availability of food sources and when to bring out the woolens - both essential things for survival.

Equinoxes can tell us when the bees become more active or when the salmon start to spawn. As such, it is only natural that equinoxes and solstices (the more glamorous cousins, occurring in June and December) are marked by cultures across the world with varied customs, traditions and celebrations associated with them. And thus, heavens have a direct impact on the way humans build and sustain community.

What is the Equinox?

Geologically speaking, or meteorologically speaking depending on which way you are bent, or astrophysically speaking, if you want to be pedantic about it - an Equinox is a day when both the Northern and Southern hemispheres are equidistant from the Sun. Roughly speaking that is. It’s a fun thing we get to experience twice a year because of the tilt of the Earth’s axis - a discovery that dates back nearly 3000 years, with notable contributions by the Indians, Chinese, ancient Greeks, Baghdadis and a particularly determined Dane with a very suspicious bald patch.

On equinoxes, day and night are roughly (science is the art of tactfully worded approximations, okay?) equal all over the earth. The March or Vernal Equinox marks the beginning of Spring in the Northern Hemisphere and the beginning of autumn in the Southern. But we are not here to get into the science of it. (Note: We respect that your inclinations may be different, so if you do want to get into the how and why of things, we recommend starting here, and in case you are into dark and grittier things, we recommend you start here.)

So, moving on…

Why is the Equinox significant, Culturally?

Equinoxes and other celestial events mark a lot of events in different places - irrespective of what calendar they use on Google. In a sense, they signify both beginnings and transitions. People around the world continue to celebrate these concepts today in the tradition of our ancestors from millennia ago. They are associated with folklore and local legends as well as myth and religion. In the Northern Hemisphere, the Vernal Equinox in March means the start of spring, the end of harvests and a rise in temperatures. The time between February and April is often one for congregating, sharing and joy-making. You have the Persians and Zoroastrians celebrating the new year (Nowroz) along with Thailand (Songkran) and Bali (Nyepi), the Christians across the world have Mardi Gras before they withdraw into Lent (40 days of fasting and contemplation replicating Jesus’ withdrawal into the desert) and then Easter (which traces its roots back to the Feast of the Anglo-Saxon Goddess of Spring - Ostara) and the Jews have Passover (that celebrates the exodus of Israelites from Egypt as immortalised in the Disney movie The Prince of Egypt. (Also, we have opinions on Disney, come talk to us about them). In the South, March is the beginning of winter (autumn, if you want to be technical about it) - there is contemplation, honouring the ancestors and stocking up for the upcoming cold. Magic. And of course, the coming together of people to prepare for the tough times.

Here are a few interesting celebrations of the Equinox that exemplify the human art of community in these pressing times.

Quirky Equinox Celebrations - Because, why not?

Lathmar Holi - India

Women joyfully sticking it to the men (Image Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Yes, we all know about Holi - the Festival of Colours. It has received too many lecherous renditions in Bollywood to not have carved a serious niche in our collective desi consciousness. Lathmar Holi (Lath from Lathi which means stick and mar is to literally beat) has all the trappings of regular holi - colours, water, large crowds, eve-teasing, singing, dancing, spiked drinks, bonfires. But what makes it special is that a large part of the festivities involves groups of ghoonghat-wearing women beating men with sticks. Playfully of course.

Yes, you read that right.

It’s a completely localized festival - concentrated in two small, historic towns of Uttar Pradesh - Nandgaon and Barsana. The beating-with-sticks part happens mainly at the Radha Temple in Barsana - the only temple dedicated to Radha - considered to be an avatar of Lakshmi - the Goddess of Wealth - in the country. By lore, Nandgaon is the birthplace of Krishna and Barsana is where Radha lived. Krishna is ninth avatar of Vishnu, the God of Preservation in the Indic Trinity of Bramha-Vishnu-Mahesh. He is purported by various sources to have had sixteen thousand and eight wives. Radha was not one of them. Yet, stories of their courtship and love abound in the Krishna canon and are central to Krishna worship traditions to this day. And Holi is as associated with Radha and Krishna as it is with the myth of Holika.

Legend has it that Krishna and his fellows would visit Barsana to tease and court Radha and the Gopis. And as recompense for their mischief, Radha and the Gopis would chase after them and beat them with sticks. Playfully of course.

And local men and women continue the practice. Men wear required protection and carry shields. And the women dress up in beautifully loud clothing and carry sticks. Everyone else, presumably, stands to the side and cheers, while throwing fistfuls of colour (which makes a great aesthetic for music videos, I am told) on to the scuffling genders.

Everybody wins.

The pictures above are the only ones we could find that were free to use. But if you want to see images that look like a how-to guide on beating up men - check out this Navbharat Times article. You will not be disappointed!

La Fiesta de La Fruta y Las Flores - Ecuador

The Queen of Ambato leading the La Fiesta de La Fruta y Las Flores parade (Image Source: Wikimedia Commons)

The Fruit and Flower Festival is a heart-warming example of how humans reconcile abundance and destruction through community. It’s not an Equinox tradition dating back to the ancients. It’s actually fairly recent and completely planned. In August 1949, Ambato, where the festival is centred, was hit by an enormous earthquake that killed over 5000 people and resulted in the demolition of 75% of the area’s buildings. The festival was instituted in 1950 to commemorate this loss and celebrate the reconstruction of the town and its agrarian heritage.

The festival is a four-day extravaganza celebrated during Carnaval - which is basically the time to party before the sombre 40 days of Lent. Buildings are adorned with fruits and flowers - including the Ambato Cathedral. There are floats and markets and music and dancing. Everyone is invited and everyone can participate. The local clergy perform a Blessing of the Flowers, Fruits and Bread. A Queen of Ambato is selected to lead the masses in celebration and giving. And there is even a Night Parade.

La Fiesta de La Fruta y Las Flores is this wonderful blend of religious and folk celebration - some of which date back to the pre-Incan, pre-colonial era and some that were invented a few years ago. It is supported by educational and government organizations, local businesses and the citizenry. For, of and by - the people. A great model for urban development, if anyone important out there is listening.

Mushuk Nina - The Andes

Modern Day Mushuk Nina Celebration (Image Source: Cancillería del Ecuador via Flickr through Creative Commons Licensing)

Since we were in the region, I wanted to also take a small detour to mention the indigenous traditions of the region, since we did go into the liturgical ones. Solstices and equinoxes are considered to be of paramount importance in the spiritual tradition of the Andes - times of the year when the energy of the solar cycle is considered to be at its peak. The March Equinox is called Mushuk Nina (New Fire) and is considered the start of the equatorial Andean year by the Quechuan people. The corresponding festive ritual is called Pawkar Raymi which basically means Garden Ritual and marks the coming together of people at the start of the agricultural cycle.

The lighting of fire is significant in various ways in Equinox festivals across the board. The cultural blog of the Kichwa Otavalo People says, “According to the Kichwas, it is the NEW FIRE that brings strength, bravery, courage and passion for life. It is the energy in action that motivates you to get up every morning and start working. The inner fire that drives us to seek new paths, to face new challenges and correct risks. For the Andean peoples, the MUSHUK NINA is part of the entire agricultural cycle, the same one that begins at this time.”

Shunbun No Hi - Japan

Picnicking under the Sakura in Fukushima (Image Source: C.K. Tse via Flickr through Creative Commons Licensing)

There is a reason the Japanese are my spirit people. They have days assigned for everything. Amongst the more beloved ones are Seijin no Hi, or Coming of Age day, where everyone close to the landmark age is supposed to turn twenty. Then there is Hinamatsuri (yes, it has my name) which is like a Japanese Day of the Girlchild - but with rice cakes. There’s an official Moon-viewing day. A day to use Pocky-eating competitions as a way to kiss people. A day to cut trees. You get the point.

So, it should come as no surprise that the Vernal Equinox is an official, national public holiday in the country. Shunbun no Hi (Day of Vernal Equinox) was originally a Shinto tradition that ran for a week. People got clean, dressed up, prayed at temples and visited family graves to sweep them clean and leave offerings for the ancestors. But with the way the Pacific Theatre and World War II played out, it was considered not only prudent but also emergent to separate state and religion in the nation. Thus, with a little help from a certain General Douglas MacArthur, the Shinto Spring Festival was repackaged as a secular day for friends, family and food while being outdoors and enjoying the stunning weather and beautiful scenery of Japan.

Shunbun no Hi also marks the start of sakura or cherry blossom season, the gorgeous flowers the pink-haired girl from Naruto was named for. And hanami - yes, going outside to watch flowers has a specific term in Japanese - is a national pastime. Families, lovers, friends, that strange guy who lives in the basement with cats - they all head out on this day - picnic baskets full of fried chicken and beer in tow - to sit down and stare at pink flowers raining down from the skies. Perhaps the truest way to appreciate the joy of spring.

Probably Relevant Travel Tip

And if you are interested in having your own little Shunbun no Hi without leaving the country (though Japan is allowing Indian tourists in, but like who can afford the 14-day quarantine and ridiculous peak season pricing) you could take some family and friends down (up?) to the Kaas Plateau in the Sahyadri Hills. It’s a three-hour drive and a Rs 50 entry. They have restricted time slots and a cap on the number of people allowed - nothing an online booking can’t solve - to keep visitors safe. Of course, the equinox may not be the best time to go there, but hey, at least you have time to plan an August visit now. Before you leave though, just remember:

“The size of the flower is smaller than the nail. The full bloom of the flower depends on the natural factors like rain, heat, humidity and it is constantly changing. Don’t argue with the staff.”

—The Kas Committee

Sham El-Nessim

Egypt has an equally fun and totally unreligious day called Sham El-Nessim (literally, inhaling the breeze) which dates back to the time of the Pharaohs - to a festival called Shemu. Technically, the holiday in contemporary times falls on Easter Monday which is in April. But, the traditional date for the celebration was the Spring Equinox. But that’s more of a convenience thing brought in as Egypt became a Christian nation under the rule of the Roman Empire. (That in itself is a fascinating piece of history and we would love to take the conversation about that offline because this article has become way longer than it was supposed to be already).

Point is, it counts.

According to LetsConclude.net, “Ancient Egyptians believed that Sham El Nessim marks the beginning of world creation; when “Ra” The Sun God sails with his boat in the skies and anchors on the top of the Great Pyramid, a journey that symbolizes life and death.” Ancient Egyptians were complicated people, to say the least, if the Mummy movies are any indication. Modern Egyptians basically use the holiday much like their Japanese counterparts to spend some time healthily bonding with friends and family in parks, gardens and zoos. Though the photo-ops for both countries are vastly different. One of the more interesting traditions of Sham El-Nessim, which then came to be adopted and then assimilated into customs synonymous with Easter is the colouring and decorating of eggs. The humble egg in Egyptian tradition represents a bunch of things - life, death (yes, these two were a national obsession around the Nile), kingship and of course fertility. Egg decorating has come a long way from the gold leaf-covered ostrich eggs of 2700 BCE and now a lot of countries have their own traditions and painting techniques. Check this album of eggs from various countries on Wikipedia to get some eggzelent insight into the evolution of simple folk traditions meant to keep eggs from going to waste.

Regardless of the Easter Eggs, Sham El-Nessim is not a religious festival. Not because a government decided to make it secular, but because the people kept it that way. For thousands of years. If you’ve heard anything about the history of modern Egypt or if you live in a region where communal and religious conflict is a present-day reality - you’ll know how significant that singular fact is. And why we need to lean into it a lot more than we do the other stuff.

Noche De Brujas - Mexico

A View of the Cleansing Ceremony at Cerro Monto Blanco (Image Source: Everfest.com)

And we return to the Spanish-speaking world to give you one last example of how, no matter how crazy an idea is, if someone wants it bad enough, it will become a fiesta!

Noche de Brujas (Night of the Witches) started because a forward-thinking brujo (witch / sorcerer / shaman type human) wanted to have a witch’s convention at Catemaco - the witchcraft capital of Mexico. No, this is not the plot of a Roald Dahl children’s classic. It is something that literally happened in 1970 because celebrity brujo Gonzalo Aguirre - shaman to politicians, actors and sundry rich people, wanted to mark a time and place where practitioners of the craft could congregate, cleanse and renew themselves for the coming year. After his death, the event was formalized by the 13 (yes, thirteen) most important witches in Catemaco and continues to be celebrated in March each year.

Probably Relevant Fun Fact

Other than being a witchy paradise, Catemaco is also the place where most of Mel Gibson’s Mayan tribute Apocalypto was shot. Opinions on the film, again, we would love to discuss those offline.

The main event is the mass cleansing ritual that is performed on the hill outside the town - Cerro Monto Blanco. As the World Nomads website describes it, “The occasion is less ooga-booga than it sounds – you should expect more Bewitched than The Blair Witch Project.” The celebration is open to non-witchy visitors and is the site of bonfires, animal sacrifices, egg-based spirit cleansings and of course, various forms of healing, divining and what have you. It is considered auspicious to seek these services after the ritual, since practitioners are likely to be at their most powerful, post-cleansing. Almost every information portal on Noche de Brujas mentions the possibility of being duped and scammed by charlatans. But what is witchcraft without a little trickery? Or as Granny Weatherwax would say, “If people think you're a witch, you might as well be one.”

In conclusion…

If you made it to the end, we hope you enjoyed what you read. This is not just a list of fascinating spring equinox festivals and traditions we found from across the world. This is a primer of humanity - of our innate need to come together and celebrate the good things in life and let go of the bad - natural disasters, major political upheavals and time notwithstanding. The past two years have severely damaged this instinct, one has been in the making for over 5000 years. Today, many of us are going to give the festivities a pass due to safety and health concerns. Yet many more are going to risk it all to congregate in unprecedented numbers and perhaps cause more chaos than we can honestly afford. Which of these two groups has it right, is not a question we are here to debate. What matters is that our need to come together is perhaps greater than our need to isolate. That the art of community is in our blood.

And maybe that’s something to think about.